The Daks Autumn/Winter15 collection drew inspiration from the term ‘luxury in motion’ and English motorcycling. We saw the heritage brand make an exciting new change, in this collection Daks has calibrated with motorbike wheels, in order to acknowledge and celebrate the great iconic story of English motorcycling. This collection was built on bold, block colours with a city chic finish. Although there was a reminiscent 60s feel with an implied twist of the 70s, the Daks show was undisputedly modern.
Bikers’ gloves, jackets and shoes made this collection edgy, which strayed away from their usual traditional house check for a more bolder, but cooler aesthetic which saw women and men alike take to the catwalk clad in quilted biker jackets and sixties colour-blocked shifts. The different variations of colours and prints that were used in this collection such as deep red, purple, Prince of Wales check, tulip print, and of course the timeless biker black. Featuring some strong masculine style which was evident in pieces such as the double breasted jacket and matching crop trousers; yet still managing to stay feminine, with some softer more feminine elements which harked back to the chiffons that were seen last season. A tulip print was used in various sizes and colours to counter the leather biker toughness, but most notably on a floor length shirt dresses with deep autumnal tones. Despite having a charming quality, it did dance between fluidity and structure almost effortlessly.
Creative Director Fillippo Scuttti cited the term ‘mode’ as a starting point, the Italian term means movement, evolution and dynamism, which is all captured perfectly in this collection. Quilting was used throughout, red leather jackets lined with cashmere, and on the biker style skirts, gloves and shoes. The men too, were seen donning leather jumpsuits and baker-boy hats.
The forever famous Prince of Wales check did however make an appearance on a masculine inspired, double-breasted jacket and matching crop trousers, which was definitely one of the most striking looks from the collection. The 60s silhouettes echoed the 70s with the models flat-ironed hair, patent boots and jaunty headwear.
The soulful music set the tone for a show that took you back in time with a modern edge. What was very interesting about this arrangement was that it seemed to be the opposite to the traditional portrayal of Daks that we are all used to. Keeping in mind that Daks strayed away from their comfort zone with such different pieces for next season, they still kept some elements that they are known for with the tulip print being one of them.
Halfway through the show, the palette changed from scarlet red and off-white blocks into a paler, more solid one. Towards the end came a set of lengthy floor sweeping dresses that would be better suited to evening wear with an edgier feel, than the usual smart collections we have witnessed in the past and have become accustom to associate with Daks.
Overall I feel the Daks AW15 collection screamed uptown city chic meets utilitarian practicality with the military cap emphasising this, while keeping in line with 60/70s style with the knee-high patent boot, as the models strutted to the beat of motown tunes, it was difficult not to be swept away with the fluid lines of the dresses and the ambiance.