What We Wear, a youthful and dynamic brand founded by Tinie Tempah, showcased their second contemporary SS/18 collection called ‘Bring Your Game, at LFWM's 5th anniversary in a remarkable presentation, with a concept that was undeniably clever.
The collection included sport inspired design features e.g. poppers running down the side of shorts, that still remained a sense of comfort in the interactive setting and simple silhouettes, displaying its inspiration from sportswear.
Each look had its own distinct aesthetic and carried the brands identity so effortlessly. With black, different shades of blue such as baby blue and navy, complimented with nudes, a sheen brown, popping pink and piped stripes of orange, it all came together on the What We Wear basketball court.
As the models joked and played on the WWW court, it contributed to the easy going and laid back atmosphere and definitely spread the fun and enjoyment in the room.
In addition, the collection was styled with none other than the iconic footwear brand Converse, displaying a casual yet trendy look.
The Oliver Spencer brand is a vision of the man himself. He founded the brand in 2002 and set out to create a range of clothing that was premium tailored. From just one shop on London’s Lambs Conduit Street, he has now gone on to open a range of shops and an international online business.
Oliver Spencer showcased their amazing collection for LMFW 5th anniversary this year. Advertising a modern tailored style with softly tailored jackets, relaxed shorts and cropped trousers. Spencer managed to create a smart casual collection with beautifully complimenting colours, making an attractive colour combination. Such as dark shades of blue to dark brown and beige to lighter tones of pink, which indeed made a tremendous impact to the relaxed look.
What was eye-catching to this collection was the creatively displayed parka jackets worn with accentuated straps, which can transform from a jacket to a rucksack. Very effective and added a sense of comfortably to this collection.
A beautifully displayed show in which the designer closed with a series of exclusive designed logo T-shirts that include ‘LOVE TOWN’ on the front, produced with the artist David Austen.
Katie Eary revealed her SS18 collaborated collection with BOY London, spliffy and Pretty Green. Bonding over their history in British street fashion the iconic brands were able to pull together an amazing collection. Including items as far as sexy tropical printed swimwear and bikini bottom jeans to neon waterproof jackets, with round headpieces to add to the bug-like theme. This collection was something not to be missed.
A combination of silk pyjamas, mesh hoodies, washed denim, erotic tie up bikinis and heavily influenced BOY London streetwear apparel. Mixed with Eary’s distinctive prints in the form of creepy crawlies really added a beautiful contrast to this collaboration. This season’s prints included beetles, dragonflies and electric blue butterflies, inspired by Sci-Fi, High-Vis and Day-Glo this collection is a universe of Eary’s imagination.
With long Rizla invites offered to the Katie Eary x Boy London show guests, pink and green braided hair extensions and a great soundtrack choice the show was an incredible sight to see.
Inspired by the Japanese baseball teams of the 40’s and 50’s from her hometown Osaka, Michiko Koshino showcased her SS18 collection, which is a concoction of contemporary and historic aesthetics.
A strongly themed collection consisting of high customized orange and green Michiko Koshino socks, cropped elasticated trousers and street style influence. But what was most striking was the black inflatable hooded jacket and matching trousers that were incredible. Famed for her unconventional silhouettes, by challenging and distorting various fabrics Koshino remains at the forefront of forward-thinking fashion. Sport generated collections for the most part have always had a great turn out. With the use of wool, heavy jersey and nylon fabrics Koshino was able to turn this base-ball inspired collection into something great, which showcased a deeper understanding of the designer’s craft. Making this menswear line wearable, but so outstanding.
With a relating soundtrack of what it would be like if at an actual baseball game, Koshino put on a remarkable presentation.
Written By Maria Santee Photos Taken Paul Licorish
South Korean born designer Eudon Choi, initially trained as a menswear designer in Seoul, where he acquired an in-depth knowledge of tailoring techniques. Eudon as he enters his fifth year, is one of very few designers who possesses the ability to translate his strong background in menswear into womenswear, and for his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection he managed to achieve this effortlessly, with his designs this upcoming season being very utilitarian while exploring sartorial silhouettes and fusing it with crisp tailoring, yet Eudon still managed to keep his signature feminine sensibility.
His AW17 collection, was inspired by the work of Adolf Loos, who was an Austrian and Czech architect and influential European theorist of modern architecture and a pioneer of the modernist movement. Eudon Choi’s collection commanded the attention of everyone watching on as the models sashayed down the runway to the sound of the perfectly timed cow bell and drum fused music. The collection focuses on Loos’ ethos for the elimination of adornment and captures his minimalist attitudes towards design.
Eudon paid homage to the work of the architect Adolf Loos who was a significant theorist of modern architecture. Loos’ essay ‘Ornament and Crime’ explored the idea of the deletion of ornament from everyday objects. Choi finds inspiration in Loos’ writing and translates this into clothing. He replicates plush interiors and sharp exteriors in his use of luxurious fabric and lavish fastenings, combined with the precise lines of his tailoring that he is well known for. Eudon took the words of a man who believed creating something just for the sake of ornamental purposes was a crime, and translated it into wearable designs, to grace us later this year.
The chosen colour palette was so calming and complimented the surroundings beautifully. It was quite muted with neutral tones at the forefront, with the odd deliberate vibrant piece, the use of orange and cornflower blue complimented the use of grey and khaki which was consistent in the collection as a whole, the use of pinstripes made it all so work-ready while editorial at the same time. The use of silk and shift dressed added a softness to the more structured pieces.
Eudon’s purposeful draping of knitwear worn half on over the shoulder, oversized pieces and puffer jackets that rested on one side of the body added another dimension to the show that was simply genius, adding softness in the right places. Layering was a reminiscent feature with this collection, which requires the right dose of creativity and style, that I believe takes a true creative to really know how to ty an outfit together, and it’s evident that Eudon has achieved this time and time again. His use of trainers to go with each look just perfectly accompanied the collection, I could envision professionals on the commute with their heels safely encased in their city bag. Every obviously detail deliberate yet was executed so effortlessly. Eudon is known for his attention to detail.
The power of fabric rang true as Eudon made the collection showcase his mastery of capturing movement in stiff fabrics through tailoring and creating flattering silhouettes from oversized pieces that drape across the body, and over-sized turtle necks, and puffed sleeves, showing proportion and celebrating it rather than completely disguising it. He is hands down one of the best designers out there when it comes to making crisp cottons look cool and wearable. He took every day work-ready/city professional pieces and gave them a new purpose, dare I say a new lust for life.
This season Eudon Choi has joined forces with global bag brand Decke to debut a range directly inspired by the ‘Villa Müller’, one of Loos’ most iconic works. The quality of the leather and unique hardware show a definite comparison to the fittings and fixtures within the Müller home. The collaboration encapsulates both the classic elegance of Decke and Choi’s refined attitude.
Each of the looks were paired with simple, clean scraped back ponytails, with each model wearing barely there make-up and a bold burnt orange lip, and deliberate bushy brows, tying each look together as Eudon Choi translated Adolf Loo’s essay of Ornament and Crime, the elegance of simplicity, simply!