South Korean born designer Eudon Choi, initially trained as a menswear designer in Seoul, where he acquired an in-depth knowledge of tailoring techniques. Eudon as he enters his fifth year, is one of very few designers who possesses the ability to translate his strong background in menswear into womenswear, and for his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection he managed to achieve this effortlessly, with his designs this upcoming season being very utilitarian while exploring sartorial silhouettes and fusing it with crisp tailoring, yet Eudon still managed to keep his signature feminine sensibility.
His AW17 collection, was inspired by the work of Adolf Loos, who was an Austrian and Czech architect and influential European theorist of modern architecture and a pioneer of the modernist movement. Eudon Choi’s collection commanded the attention of everyone watching on as the models sashayed down the runway to the sound of the perfectly timed cow bell and drum fused music. The collection focuses on Loos’ ethos for the elimination of adornment and captures his minimalist attitudes towards design.
Eudon paid homage to the work of the architect Adolf Loos who was a significant theorist of modern architecture. Loos’ essay ‘Ornament and Crime’ explored the idea of the deletion of ornament from everyday objects. Choi finds inspiration in Loos’ writing and translates this into clothing. He replicates plush interiors and sharp exteriors in his use of luxurious fabric and lavish fastenings, combined with the precise lines of his tailoring that he is well known for. Eudon took the words of a man who believed creating something just for the sake of ornamental purposes was a crime, and translated it into wearable designs, to grace us later this year.
The chosen colour palette was so calming and complimented the surroundings beautifully. It was quite muted with neutral tones at the forefront, with the odd deliberate vibrant piece, the use of orange and cornflower blue complimented the use of grey and khaki which was consistent in the collection as a whole, the use of pinstripes made it all so work-ready while editorial at the same time. The use of silk and shift dressed added a softness to the more structured pieces.
Eudon’s purposeful draping of knitwear worn half on over the shoulder, oversized pieces and puffer jackets that rested on one side of the body added another dimension to the show that was simply genius, adding softness in the right places. Layering was a reminiscent feature with this collection, which requires the right dose of creativity and style, that I believe takes a true creative to really know how to ty an outfit together, and it’s evident that Eudon has achieved this time and time again. His use of trainers to go with each look just perfectly accompanied the collection, I could envision professionals on the commute with their heels safely encased in their city bag. Every obviously detail deliberate yet was executed so effortlessly. Eudon is known for his attention to detail.
The power of fabric rang true as Eudon made the collection showcase his mastery of capturing movement in stiff fabrics through tailoring and creating flattering silhouettes from oversized pieces that drape across the body, and over-sized turtle necks, and puffed sleeves, showing proportion and celebrating it rather than completely disguising it. He is hands down one of the best designers out there when it comes to making crisp cottons look cool and wearable. He took every day work-ready/city professional pieces and gave them a new purpose, dare I say a new lust for life.
This season Eudon Choi has joined forces with global bag brand Decke to debut a range directly inspired by the ‘Villa Müller’, one of Loos’ most iconic works. The quality of the leather and unique hardware show a definite comparison to the fittings and fixtures within the Müller home. The collaboration encapsulates both the classic elegance of Decke and Choi’s refined attitude.
Each of the looks were paired with simple, clean scraped back ponytails, with each model wearing barely there make-up and a bold burnt orange lip, and deliberate bushy brows, tying each look together as Eudon Choi translated Adolf Loo’s essay of Ornament and Crime, the elegance of simplicity, simply!
Next autumn we’ll be taking a step back in time if Desigual’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection is anything to go by.
The aptly named show, EXTRAORDINARY, received a celeb-packed welcome as it was shown at New York Fashion Week early this week. EXTRAORDINARY perfectly blends the brand’s DNA with the subcultures of the ‘60s, 70s and 80s. Bringing the decades’ subculture aesthetics into the 21st century, Desigual takes a look at the view of women, diversity and free expression and reinterprets the female uprisings of last century for the woman of today.
The collection fuses a collage of influences in new and unexpected ways; the result is a surprising combination of colours, pieces and materials. Mixing and layering are the bones of the look and dance is at the heart. Think all night parties in ‘60s England or the voguing rage of the early ‘80s USA. Desigual’s AW17 collection pays homage to both and fuses the two by mixing bowling shirts, high-waisted Oxford trousers and Brogue shoes.
Equally influential are the Spanish New Wave and California Rock scenes. Both pushed boundaries and questioned the established parameters, which is something Desigual captures in the collection with combinations of old/new, masculine/feminine and casual/glamour.
When I think of the classic Englishman dressed in impeccably tailored, classic shapes in neutral colors I think of Oliver Spencer. For this Autumn, Oliver delivers on giving sophisticated, modern options for the busy man. From clothing to accessories, he thought of all the circumstances of a what a busy male would need with bags, umbrellas, glasses and more. For this upcoming season, he has envisioned men wearing black and grey outfits that either are solid or patterned with touches of autumnal burnt oranges and rusty reds.
Gone are the zealously styled clothes of paisley prints, mutli-coloured ensembles and overly patterned clothes. Thick jackets that came in a variety of lengths had no extra fuss with practical pockets in substantial materials. Oliver describes this collection as having a “Velvethead” twist, alluding to the cultural roots of music and fashion. He did take a break from his structured silhouette, by scattering touches of relaxed trousers with a touch of pattern-work.
One of his unique stylistic touches that were throughout his collection was the cropped leg, giving everything a touch of youthful, casualness no matter how luxurious the fabric that was chosen. One of the special things about Oliver’s shows is his desire to give back to the community and he partnered up with Vero’s ‘Buy Now’ platform and created umbrellas that he will be giving 100% of the profits to a charity called SHINE, which supports young people who are diagnosed with cancer.
Very rare to see any brand give 100% of a products’ proceeds to a charitable cause, making Oliver Spencer a brand not only one can wear with pride to look stylish and well equipped for any occasion, but also a brand that one can know that is contributing to a worthy cause.
Menswear many times is not given the same detail as is given to womenswear. Lack of color combinations, traditional shapes, basic fabrics are all typical across brands when it comes to what is available for men’s clothing. Not when it comes Astrid Andersen designs. She took traditional English aesthetics and gave them a modern twist with her interpretation of what the sophisticated English man wears.
Throughout her Autumn/Fall collection Astrid introduces velvet. Velvet in deep gold's, burgundies, black and cream.
Styled throughout the collection are white trainers. Giving the ensembles a fresh of brightness, something not expected for the colder months, again creating different theories of what one can contemplate wearing in the season.
Luxurious velvet tracksuits in rich bourdeoux and cream plays on our concept of creating new spaces to wear previously comfort-wear for more formal places.
Astrid brings a certain opulent aesthetic to menswear that is missing from the market. Feathers and velvet, leopard print and corduroy used with casual themed clothes mirrors almost a yin and yang, of two very opposite mentalities brought together in one outfit.
Pack your binoculars because Maharishi want to take us on safari for Spring/Summer 2017.
Following from American and Chinese military presence on the continent, the London-born label takes on a new palette inspired by its colonisation. This is a collection that is as much about politics that inspired the clothes as it is about the clothes themselves, and highlights the importance of Mother Nature’s resources.
The eco-friendly range uses a natural palette extracted from the mines of Africa, with Coltan taking centre stage. The use of the mineral, used to manufacture smartphones and laptops – highlights the armed conflict caused by Africa’s natural resources and the global trade interest they bring with them.
The primitive graphics and simplistic shapes portray a sense of naivety, while the overlocked staple stitch that finishes most pieces is inspired by Ivorian artists. These subtle details continue with symbolic references to the American Tour of Vietnam in the late 60s style of African map embroidery.
This season, the Tigerstripe Mural camouflage and other patterns have been hand painted onto reclaimed military uniforms. The printing takes place in East London as part of Maharishi’s upcycling programme.
The silhouettes are inspired by traditional African clothing, including the hoodless wide-collared robe known as the Djellabiya in the Horn of Africa.