The Waldorf Hilton Hotel’s opulent Palm court ballroom, set the stage for the well established Irish designer Paul Costelloe, as he showcased his new A/W collection 2020 during London Fashion Week. Among the array of celebs spotted front row were ; Vogue Williams, Tallia Storm, Egypt, Chloe Lewis, Diana Vickers, Eyal Booker to name a few.
Paul Costelloe’s philosophy and aim was to ‘make life easier on the treadmill of Fashion’, his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection echoed this. And was made with the pre and post sport city individual in mind, those that are health conscience, but with comfort being the main focus. He says that he got the idea for his new collection, as he watched women heading to the gym every morning in London, wearing trainers and other comfortable gear. As the models descended down the steps, and sashayed onto the catwalk to a soundtrack of eighties pop tunes, Paul’s Autumnal athleisure and evening wear collection, showcased classic elegance and comfort. But yet he somehow managed to fuse beauty with sleek, bodysuits and tights. Which created a hybrid of what could be seen as futuristic active wear with the Costelloe timelessness, perfect for any city dweller.
The models were adorned with beaten metal jewellery from uber talented jewellers Liars and Lovers. Following on from the designers ‘sports-luxe’ theme, International Artistic Director Indira Schauwecker and the TONI & GUY Session Team created a ‘wet look’ triple ponytail, with Label M UK gel, guaranteed to last from gym through to a ‘Paul party!’. Make-up by Yin lee and the AOF make-up team using Kevin Aucoin to give that post work out glow. Strong, modern graphic eyes with a metallic gold eyeshadow, dewy, beautiful skin achieved by using Dermalogica skin care range, and pink hued lips. Silver glitter nails with pops of yellow, done by Sophia Stylianou and her team using the brand Peacci.
High tech bodysuits and leggings in in-house designed graphic prints are worn under oversized wool and tweed coats sourced from the Scottish Highlands and the lakes of Como. This is a precision sportswear with a timeless beauty. Colours of ink, latte, antique gold, chocolate, slate greys and bursts of cloud blues are represented in Paul’s masterful genius in textiles, through chunky knitwear, cropped hooded jackets displaying the “Green by Paul Costelloe” logo, high waisted slouch pants and luxe silk and satin blouses. Evening-wear is presented in luxurious silk jacquards worn with beaten metal accessories in silver and gold. Paul Costelloe Bags are created in soft, flexible leathers in the easy weekend, versatile shapes. Paul’s son William, created the graphic prints on the high tech body suits and leggings, which were a counterpoint to his father’s fine tailoring. The printed leggings really stood out, worn with lime green and beige stiletto boots. The colour palette of grey, cornflower blue, fuschia, chartreuse, and brown tones, alongside floral, and water colour print, and plaids, all beautiful contrasts, with the odd splash of yellow, amongst the otherwise muted palette were reminiscent of the British weather.
Only Paul Costelloe could mix tailoring with streetwear so effortlessly; the elongated bell sleeves, various silhouettes, bold prints, day to night pieces, mix of chunky and tight fitting, fluid floaty dresses, all tied together are a luxe vibe. He seems to have mastered this marriage of athleisure and tailored couture, and ran down the aisle with it. This collection is one of beautiful brilliance, Paul Costelloe has taken what’s on trend and made it into fashion. “The collection represents today’s ethos of buy less and invest in the pieces that you love…. A legacy for your future!” – Paul Costelloe By Li Thane-Kitson
Over the past 20 years Ziad has grown from strength to strength and has consistently managed to make shockingly original and beautiful feminine Couture that looks like nothing else in the land of fashion. Ziad grew up in Lebanon and identifies as a design libertarian, showing his Couture in Paris for the past 6 seasons has taught him some valuable lessons and got him on the radar of mainline fashionistas internationally.
Ziad does not focus on what anyone else does, and he certainly doesn’t follow any trend or fad, he concentrates perfecting his aesthetic which has been perfected year on year. Which in-turn makes his designs almost unaffected, making everything he touches become somehow more original by the season. Dressed immaculately the elegant designer is both undeniably handsome and yet has a nonchalant care free attitude over him, he carries himself with a combined sense of boyish charm whilst being extremely humble.
Ziad has a strong social conscience and you can see for him making beautiful clothes is what drives him to make the world a better place. In recent years the brand has become one of the most talked-about (and imitated) labels in fashion. One might say the outsider artist has become a consummate insider.
Thank you for joining us Ziad, So how did the Ziad Nakad Couture label begin?
Since my early teens, I was attracted to fashion, to the eccentric fabrics, sheer embroideries and unconventional beadings, it was from there that I started to sketch designs for my family and friends.
What was the story behind your last Couture collection?
It was Inspired from high jewellery and precious stones, I would describe this collection as charming, sexy and femine, and also very fresh. What makes this collection so special is the special cuts of the shoulders and ruffles.I chose “Orion” as the collection name as this was symbolic and descriptive to the attractive and shiny embroidery applique we used, like the constellation in the sky.
What inspired your core silhouette? Which seems to be maturing year on year.
My strong enthusiasm for fashion and ability to highlight women's beauty and silhouette have been at the core of my interest.Women dressed by myself are offered aesthetic cuts coupled with a great attention to detail revealing their potent character
Tell us about the Ziad Nakad woman.
The woman of Ziad Nakad is a very feminine, elegant woman who has a strong personality that catches everyone’s attention the moment she walks into a room.
What fabrics and elements do you enjoy working with?
Transparent airy fabric like tulle, lace, chiffon
What’s more important to you, tradition in the craftsman process of Couture or innovation with new materials?
It’s a combination between the tradition of the know-how in couture with the innovation with new materials and techniques.
Whom do you create for?
I create for the woman that has a beautiful transparent character, fresh and modern
What inspires your creations?
I am inspired directly from the individual woman and her genuine charm
Who is your ultimate muse?
I am inspired via everything that portrays the woman in her most beautiful appearance.
What can we expect to see from
Much more international presence as the brand is rapidly expanding, especially within the USA and the UAE.
Thank you so much for spending the time to talk with us Ziad.
Great British Roots, the new collection by Belstaff for their Autumn/Winter 2019 collection, is presented in the heart of their Belstaff home in Mayfair. The most ideal setting to remind us all of the remarkable story the brand carries.
The collection is the first by Creative Director Sean Lehnhardt-Moore who showcases incredible British designs, evolved and entirely driven by the spirit of adventure.
The staple pieces were displayed in a space of four packing crates, each area with its own focus compass points in reference to Belstaff’s past. Simultaneously a different vibe was in each corner to signify the contemporary growth of the brand.
The first compass point was “Outward Bound” a setting from the 1920s, where Belstaff made protective outdoor gear mainly for traveling and exploring. The second compass was “Dockland” that was inspired by the military/navy, which incorporated a more extreme protective kit, in scenes with ropes, pulleys, and chains. “The Machine Age” being the third compass was encouraged by motorcyclists and equipped drivers, a scene more adventurous and associated with a love for machines. And lastly “Northern Grit” was the final compass point, the setting with the most down to earth functionality with areas in reference to potteries and coal mining.
Garments included a black leather biking cape, thick woolen jumpers, the best quality brown suede coats, cotton and cashmere as well as shearling pieces, knits and hand waxed leather to support Belstaff’s solid brand identity, great materials that capture the modern day Belstaff trademark. The tones supported the industrial influence with blacks, browns, greys, and shades of navy blue, in addition, clothing details in reference to the military uniforms.
The interior and aesthetic of the room also supported that same vibe with a space of autumn leaves, logs, a vintage British motorcycle, and mechanical accents. An environment for the guests invited to really take in and captivate the story of “Great British Roots”. Guests that were present included, Richard Biedel, Stefan Pierre, Craig McGinley, David Gandy, and Oliver Proudlock. All of which who also honoured the Belstaff presentation with incredible style and flair.
This debut for Sean Lehnhardt-Moore spoke volumes in celebrating the brand's British heritage and we believe it’ll be the first of many outstanding collections to exhibit technical innovation, forthcoming development, and beautifully crafted British design.