Rohmir’s Vienne Imperiale collection was said to be a celebration of the opera glamour of the eternal imperial style of the beautiful city. Rohmir are known for their collections being a plethora of feminine, eloquent dresses and tailored suits. Vienne Imperiale, lived up to its upper class name with an opulent line up that made expert use of texture and varied fabrics. Which is no surprise, considering that founder and designer Olga Roh hails from Russian nobility. Both a former model and academic, with a PhD from the University of Bern, she has brains as well as beauty, combining a love of glamour with an acute business sense.
Italian influences are a key and running concept throughout this collection. The colour palette used this season, was as regal as the silhouettes, emerald greens, ruby reds, black and gold. By using the softest faux fur, lace and velvet detailed with statement brooches and bold necklaces. Dresses appeared in elegant oxblood and bottle green but it was shades of black with regal gold detail that dominated. Lace trousers matched with sheer and gold tipped velvet capes delivered the drama, European style.
The models hair was plaited then pinned into a traditional style, embellished with pearls, then intricately twisted into a regal up-do, again highlighting the almost princess-esque nature of the collection and the plait adorned their heads almost like a tiara, while the make-up was kept rather neutral, with bold brows with a pink stained lip and dark, smoky eyes and false lashes. The epitome of Italian glamour.
Backstage ahead of the show, the buzz was euphoric, there’s so much stigma with models looking moody and being underweight, but these models were smiling, laughing and joking, it was a delightful atmosphere to be a part of, and they all looked truly radiant and of a healthy weight.
Olga herself was beaming and so full of energy and very down to earth, even seemingly looking very relaxed. The catwalk was flawless and the pieces dripped elegance and sophistication. The live opera performance added an air of emotive grace to the show, and Olga’s daughter closed the show alongside the Opera, which received a well-deserved standing ovation for the collection and the performance alike.
The show entitled ‘Vienne Imperiale’ boasted ideas of grandeur from the outset and it was safe to say, that the show did not disappoint. The slow and sultry affair was as grand and as exquisite as promised from the title. Models slowly glided down the catwalk, rather than walk, to the soothing rhythm of the orchestral music and live opera singer. This is Vienna no compromises made.
What else would we expect? Pam Hogg’s AW16 collection pushed the boundaries even more - yes, it was possible - with a sexualised storm of attitude at Freemasons Hall during London Fashion Week.
Sky high platforms, of course, accompanied models clad in skin tight PVC catsuits as they strutted down the catwalk, covered in weapon like studs and spikes. Stars made their cameo once more, and splattered paint prints reminded us that this fashion game is art. A form of expression. Something that Pam Hogg does extremely well - expressionism. However extreme.
The collection is dark, stormy and overtly sexy. She’s holding nothing back.
Models had everything on show with mesh body suits appliquéd with stars and a stripe to cover what can barely be left to the imagination.
Did you catch The Brit Awards? Then you would have seen Hogg’s iconic model Sadie Pinn shock the audience with an impromptu appearance. Skimpy. Bold. Statement. It’s all about the shock factor.
Pam Hogg does punk, yet still throws a spanner in the mix once in a while. This time, with umbrella skirts and splashes of red, yellow and acid green. The living dolls she creates allow for total fantasy dressing. Floor length gold dress or skin tight black mesh? It’s your call.
It’s this feminine celebration of androgyny that Hogg has become known for, and each year the crowd gets bigger. What can she possibly do next? Perhaps dainty pink dresses and ballerina flats? That would throw everyone off… Pam Hogg gone pretty? Yeah, probably not.
Belstaff took us up North as they turned the dreary Ewer Street Arches into an artic terrain as the backdrop to showcase their Autumn-Winter 2016 collection.
The vast monochrome collection is full of fur and leather, and matches style with comfort and protection from the elements. The modular hoods and linings keep you warm, protect you from the rain and keep you looking your best. It’d look great on while hiking up a mountain, but equally as amazing on a walk down the streets of London in January.
I don’t believe, practicality should take precedence over style unless you live in extreme weather conditions. However, a successful collection is one in which these two elements co-exist harmoniously, as Belstaff has well achieved in their Arctic themed menswear. Aptly titled "Heading North", the AW16 collection combines Belstaff's heritage designs with the durability of cold-weather gear, thereby providing the warmest winter wardrobe.
To highlight Belstaff's approach to the collection, the brick railway arches on Ewer Street became the backdrop for a bleak and frosty scene, complete with snow and slate underfoot, and jaggered snow covered boulders adding the rugged vibe, complete with Harley Davidson military motorcycles and a converted Triumph Tiger XCX fit for the frosty conditions. The models, too, appeared set for a winter expedition, clothed in the cosiest outerwear, including wax-cotton jackets with detachable fur and shearling trims, duck-down parka jackets with fur-trimmed hoods, and water-repellent wool and cashmere overcoats. This is an autumn/winter collection that takes its season seriously, illustrating a journey that takes you through tough terrains, snowy mountains and icy glaciers in comfort and style, considering the weather we’ve been having lately, the pieces were perfect for surviving a British winter just as much as an expedition.
This season, new heights were reached quite literally as the theme of the collection focused on high altitude adventure riding. In a way, Belstaff are lucky in that they can pin collections to aspects of their moto/adventure/military heritage, but to pull it off in a luxury manner that doesn’t alienate old-school Belstaff fans is no easy feat. That said, Dyhr and his team are making it look easy. For AW16, detailing was key: rib cuffs, snow skirts, storm bibs, fur-lined hoods, all applied to the brand’s growing collection of iconic jacket styles in both wax cotton and leather.
Never straying too far from the signature outerwear styles pioneered by Belstaff, this season focused on technical precision and adaptability for versatile weather conditions. Removable membranes and detachable shearling are examples of obvious climate changing features, however the brand has been developing technically advanced nylon/fleece combinations for hoodies and lightweight cashmere for motorcycle scarves. Biker jackets come in oiled Nubuck styles filled with down, while powder white four-pocket parkas feature fur-trimmed hoods and engineered wool and nylon linings to insulate. Other styles to come in a variety of leathers, water repellent wools and nylons include the classic Speedmaster, Aviator and a rendered 1950’s style Riding jacket adapted for today’s modern motorcycle rider.
Key accessories were developed for Belstaff’s latest collection, aptly named ‘The Masters’, including six bag style shapes in 3 various fabrications, including waxy leather and rough textured nylon.
Belstaff was chosen as a sole partner to celebrate the new 'Zoolander 2' film during London Collections Men with the creation of a bespoke Ciroc cocktail conjuring up both the cold and Zoolanders classic pose 'Blue Steel', which was being served in abundance. A cocktail which was simply as creative as the collection itself.