The Waldorf Hilton Hotel’s opulent Palm court ballroom, set the stage for the well established Irish designer Paul Costelloe, as he showcased his new A/W collection 2020 during London Fashion Week. Among the array of celebs spotted front row were ; Vogue Williams, Tallia Storm, Egypt, Chloe Lewis, Diana Vickers, Eyal Booker to name a few.
Paul Costelloe’s philosophy and aim was to ‘make life easier on the treadmill of Fashion’, his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection echoed this. And was made with the pre and post sport city individual in mind, those that are health conscience, but with comfort being the main focus. He says that he got the idea for his new collection, as he watched women heading to the gym every morning in London, wearing trainers and other comfortable gear. As the models descended down the steps, and sashayed onto the catwalk to a soundtrack of eighties pop tunes, Paul’s Autumnal athleisure and evening wear collection, showcased classic elegance and comfort. But yet he somehow managed to fuse beauty with sleek, bodysuits and tights. Which created a hybrid of what could be seen as futuristic active wear with the Costelloe timelessness, perfect for any city dweller.
The models were adorned with beaten metal jewellery from uber talented jewellers Liars and Lovers. Following on from the designers ‘sports-luxe’ theme, International Artistic Director Indira Schauwecker and the TONI & GUY Session Team created a ‘wet look’ triple ponytail, with Label M UK gel, guaranteed to last from gym through to a ‘Paul party!’. Make-up by Yin lee and the AOF make-up team using Kevin Aucoin to give that post work out glow. Strong, modern graphic eyes with a metallic gold eyeshadow, dewy, beautiful skin achieved by using Dermalogica skin care range, and pink hued lips. Silver glitter nails with pops of yellow, done by Sophia Stylianou and her team using the brand Peacci.
High tech bodysuits and leggings in in-house designed graphic prints are worn under oversized wool and tweed coats sourced from the Scottish Highlands and the lakes of Como. This is a precision sportswear with a timeless beauty. Colours of ink, latte, antique gold, chocolate, slate greys and bursts of cloud blues are represented in Paul’s masterful genius in textiles, through chunky knitwear, cropped hooded jackets displaying the “Green by Paul Costelloe” logo, high waisted slouch pants and luxe silk and satin blouses. Evening-wear is presented in luxurious silk jacquards worn with beaten metal accessories in silver and gold. Paul Costelloe Bags are created in soft, flexible leathers in the easy weekend, versatile shapes. Paul’s son William, created the graphic prints on the high tech body suits and leggings, which were a counterpoint to his father’s fine tailoring. The printed leggings really stood out, worn with lime green and beige stiletto boots. The colour palette of grey, cornflower blue, fuschia, chartreuse, and brown tones, alongside floral, and water colour print, and plaids, all beautiful contrasts, with the odd splash of yellow, amongst the otherwise muted palette were reminiscent of the British weather.
Only Paul Costelloe could mix tailoring with streetwear so effortlessly; the elongated bell sleeves, various silhouettes, bold prints, day to night pieces, mix of chunky and tight fitting, fluid floaty dresses, all tied together are a luxe vibe. He seems to have mastered this marriage of athleisure and tailored couture, and ran down the aisle with it. This collection is one of beautiful brilliance, Paul Costelloe has taken what’s on trend and made it into fashion. “The collection represents today’s ethos of buy less and invest in the pieces that you love…. A legacy for your future!” – Paul Costelloe By Li Thane-Kitson
With Fashion Week quickly approaching, we’re excited to examine and highlight our thoughts on the newest collection – being referred to as a capsule by many – by Nina Cuso, one of the most unique and most sought-out new designers in today’s fashion industry.
Nina Cuso is considered an edgy, youthful addition to the industry, so this collection is a very much anticipated entrance for the young designer. Her label, which launched in 2018, featured trendy and eclectic spins on blazers, hoodies, and coats that entranced those in the industry and pinned her as a designer to watch. Cuso’s Fall 2018 collaboration with Jaxon Yang is a huge indicator that her coming capsule will be something to pay attention to. Their design expertise had collided to create some classic looks with unexpected twists, we’re talking unique necklines, high slits, and lines that are aesthetically pleasing to every eye – even the modern consumer who’s not watching the runway.
Cuso is expecting to steer the buzz of her upcoming capsule toward her platform, which is focused heavily on social change and inclusiveness of all gender identities and body shapes. Her movement focuses on respect and tolerance and promotes building awareness of social issues through her designs. She’s much more than all talk – her line is inclusive of all body shapes, sizes, gender expressions, and disabilities. She offers custom clothing designs that can be tailored exclusively for any and all body types and abilities, making her a force for change in a world that sometimes feels like it’s not opening up to everyone quite as much as it should.
With that in mind, Cuso is a designer to watch as Fashion Week approaches. With the next generation focused on the morality and beliefs behind every company they buy from, Nina Cuso may be starting the next wave of designers and businesses who use their powers for good social change – and looking good while doing it.
Animal print, pinstripe, and camel tones are apparently here to stay, as Edward Crutchley’s collection told us so.
We are looking at another season of animal print, come Autumn/Winter this year.
Edward Crutchley is supposedly serving up business wear with a bite, which is undeniably true after what we witnessed on Saturday.
Velvet harem pants, satin robes, pinstripe co-ords, camel knitwear, satin animal print were among the array of variety within his pieces that he showcased. Edward took us on a wild safari, while also managing to take us back in time to the 80s. Which is evident, as he is said to have channelled the magnificent Grace Jones from the 1985 film A View to a Kill. Signature roomy silhouettes have been slimmed down in homage to the no-nonsense tailoring of the mid-1980s, Japanese and American ready to wear. The attitude he was was trying to convey came through effortlessly, uber cool, sartorial, power dressing.
Slate coloured grey fabric, with Wall street pinstripe, matched with Lurex fil coupe chiffon open collar shirt, and finished with fur slippers, and in some cases high gloss patent stilettos, and for the males high shine loafers, all supplied by Christian Louboutin.
Although oversized was a resounding element in this collection, one look that stood out was; the black satin robe which was worn on top of a provocative shortline black satin bustier, complete with velvet tribal print harem pants. The colour palette used was muted but consistent, we saw greys, blacks, browns, greens and white paint the catwalk.
The accessories used were very avant-garde, with Stephen Jones designing the Balinese head wrap, a riff on a Korean gat, sunglasses provided by eyewear brand Wires, soft swakara pillow box hats, and a septum to ear chain piercing, to name a few. But each complimenting the ensemble they were assigned to.
The undeniably show stopping piece though, had to be the deconstructed snakeskin cashmere cape, with a fur finished motif of a large secretary bird attacking a snake adorned on both shoulders. White mink, grey swakara and silver metalised fox from Kopenhagen fur were carefully pieced together to complete this opulent piece.
This collection is sheer brilliance, a real sense of drama and bravado, with a tinge of humour. Edward really shows a sense of himself in this collection, with the suited models feet donned with animal slippers as they sashayed down the catwalk for the finale.
It’s a New Year, and although it was a Saturday, Edward Crutchley took us back to business!