The Daks Autumn/Winter15 collection drew inspiration from the term ‘luxury in motion’ and English motorcycling. We saw the heritage brand make an exciting new change, in this collection Daks has calibrated with motorbike wheels, in order to acknowledge and celebrate the great iconic story of English motorcycling. This collection was built on bold, block colours with a city chic finish. Although there was a reminiscent 60s feel with an implied twist of the 70s, the Daks show was undisputedly modern.
Bikers’ gloves, jackets and shoes made this collection edgy, which strayed away from their usual traditional house check for a more bolder, but cooler aesthetic which saw women and men alike take to the catwalk clad in quilted biker jackets and sixties colour-blocked shifts. The different variations of colours and prints that were used in this collection such as deep red, purple, Prince of Wales check, tulip print, and of course the timeless biker black. Featuring some strong masculine style which was evident in pieces such as the double breasted jacket and matching crop trousers; yet still managing to stay feminine, with some softer more feminine elements which harked back to the chiffons that were seen last season. A tulip print was used in various sizes and colours to counter the leather biker toughness, but most notably on a floor length shirt dresses with deep autumnal tones. Despite having a charming quality, it did dance between fluidity and structure almost effortlessly.
Creative Director Fillippo Scuttti cited the term ‘mode’ as a starting point, the Italian term means movement, evolution and dynamism, which is all captured perfectly in this collection. Quilting was used throughout, red leather jackets lined with cashmere, and on the biker style skirts, gloves and shoes. The men too, were seen donning leather jumpsuits and baker-boy hats.
The forever famous Prince of Wales check did however make an appearance on a masculine inspired, double-breasted jacket and matching crop trousers, which was definitely one of the most striking looks from the collection. The 60s silhouettes echoed the 70s with the models flat-ironed hair, patent boots and jaunty headwear.
The soulful music set the tone for a show that took you back in time with a modern edge. What was very interesting about this arrangement was that it seemed to be the opposite to the traditional portrayal of Daks that we are all used to. Keeping in mind that Daks strayed away from their comfort zone with such different pieces for next season, they still kept some elements that they are known for with the tulip print being one of them.
Halfway through the show, the palette changed from scarlet red and off-white blocks into a paler, more solid one. Towards the end came a set of lengthy floor sweeping dresses that would be better suited to evening wear with an edgier feel, than the usual smart collections we have witnessed in the past and have become accustom to associate with Daks.
Overall I feel the Daks AW15 collection screamed uptown city chic meets utilitarian practicality with the military cap emphasising this, while keeping in line with 60/70s style with the knee-high patent boot, as the models strutted to the beat of motown tunes, it was difficult not to be swept away with the fluid lines of the dresses and the ambiance.
The Desigual show, with its upbeat and unlikely choice of music, along with models that beamed smiles across their faces in pure enjoyment brought a breath of fresh energy to New York Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.
Having started way back in 1984, the brand is known for its celebration of difference, and their bright, bold and ultimately fun collection, headed by the stunning Chantelle Winnie Harlow - the brand’s new ambassador - certainly followed tradition this A/W season. The collection, named ‘YES!!’, was born from the atelier of renowned designer Christian Lacroix, and has been described as a show where “dresses become canvases”, portraying the notion that fashion can be art but still be wearable and accessible for the everyday woman.
The collection presented a strong 60s vibe, with shift dresses adorned with big and bold circle prints of monochrome, yet remained ultra modern without falling in line with everyone else. Remaining true to the brand, Desigual included heaps of colour and graphic prints, pushing the tempo of design into the fashion forward season ahead.
Although extremely bold in colour, the hues where muted just enough to keep in tune with Autumn Winter, weaved in to heavy knits and fun pom poms, splashed over experimental silhouettes and vivacious cuts and shapes. Lacroix gave a nod to his French background with a homage to the beret, yet tied in the Spanish brand’s routes with full skirts and flamenco florals. Having said that, you could pick out inspirations from all over the world in their designs, as Desigual really are a global brand.
Say yes, choose design, be the Desigual woman. Have fun with your fashion.
“It’s a nature, but not the nature that we know” is how Karl Lagerfeld describes yesterday Chanel Haute Couture SS15 show, which took place under the huge glass room of the Grand Palais.
In contrast to the recent, playfully controversial shows, this season’s display may seem somewhat tame. Predictable, even – florals are one of the first trends we think of for spring/summer, after all. To assume so, however, would be to forget that this is Chanel – and Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t do predictable. When Karl Lagerfeld creates a garden, you know it will be nothing like any garden you’ve seen before. And this animated Garden of Eden may be the most youthful, intricate garden we’ve ever seen.
If a designer was ever able to bring fabric to life, there is no better example than the 3D acetate flowers which adorned the dresses. Crafted so beautifully they almost look more realistic than the real thing, this is a garden we really want to wear and expect many will too. The classic Chanel suit’s iconic tweed was given a delicate makeover, softened by pastel hues and frayed edges. Length ventured into new territories too as skirts varied from above to knee to a modern, cropped ankle length. Jackets were cropped, making the waist the new cleavage.
The collection also features a beanie, as Lagerfeld attempts to take yet another everyday item to new couture levels following last year’s success of the same type with the trainer.